Roll cage?
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Roll cage?
Will a roll cage change my class? (STC)
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communism worked in theory also
communism worked in theory also
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Of the top of my head: Bolt-in, no. Weld-in, maybe.
What type of cage (aside from mounting) are you considering? Roadrace, Rally, Dragrace?
Stripping the interior? Welcome to Prepared or Mod class.
What type of cage (aside from mounting) are you considering? Roadrace, Rally, Dragrace?
Stripping the interior? Welcome to Prepared or Mod class.
-Scott Creech, #54STF - Hyundai Veloster "The BluMeanie!"
Parfois, on fait pas semblant
"The key to happiness is; If you cannot learn to do something well; learn to enjoy doing it poorly..."
Parfois, on fait pas semblant
"The key to happiness is; If you cannot learn to do something well; learn to enjoy doing it poorly..."
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Really didn't know there was much of a difference to be honest. I come from a dragrace background so I didn't know any different.Bullitt2954 wrote:Of the top of my head: Bolt-in, no. Weld-in, maybe.
What type of cage (aside from mounting) are you considering? Roadrace, Rally, Dragrace?
Stripping the interior? Welcome to Prepared or Mod class.
Not stripping the interior, and not going to prepared or mod class without a engine swap and more driver skill.
(THE ROTARY ENGINE.......................)
communism worked in theory also
communism worked in theory also
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- SilverYota
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The 2013 rules are up as "draft" and I just downloaded using this link to my phone.
http://www.scca.com/assets/2013%20SCCA% ... aft%20.pdf
http://www.scca.com/assets/2013%20SCCA% ... aft%20.pdf
Matt Longpine
'88 MR2
'88 MR2
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Serious "Ick", man. (and I'm not referring to the colour) Did you happen to read the discussion around that "show cage"? I have to agree with both detractors of it in that conversation.
Anyway, here's the excerpt on rollbars and cages, taken from the 2012 Solo rulebook (2013 won't let me cut-&-paste, but they're the nearly-same but for referencing 9.4.5 for Formula/open-wheel cars)
3.3.2 Roll Bars
Roll bars or roll cages are strongly recommended in all cars. A roll bar
meeting the requirements of Appendix C or a roll cage meeting the
requirements of Section 9.4 of the Club Racing General Competition
Rules (GCR) is required in all A Modified (AM), B Modified (BM), C Modified
(CM), and F Modified (FM) vehicles and all open cars in Prepared
Category, D Modified (DM) class, and E Modified (EM) class. For open
cars in the Stock, Street Prepared, Street Touring, and Street Modified
categories, the roll bar or roll cage height may be reduced from Appendix
C or GCR 9.4 requirements to the highest possible height which
fits within an installed factory-specified hardtop or convertible top. The
roll bar or roll cage height may also be reduced in the same manner for
cars in the Prepared category with a full original equipment windshield
assembly and a standard (as defined herein) hardtop which has been
bolted securely in place.
Double-hoop roll bars must fasten properly to the chassis/unibody as
required by Appendix C, particularly at attachment points in the center
of the car.
GCR updated through December 2012 is available here:
http://scca.cdn.racersites.com/prod/ass ... cember.pdf
Section 9.4 starts on page 110, and ends on 119.
Appendix "C" sez:
A. BASIC DESIGN CONSIDERATIONS
1. The basic purpose of the roll bar is to protect the driver in case the
vehicle rolls over. This purpose should not be forgotten.
2. The top of the roll bar shall not be below the top of the driver’s helmet
when the driver is in normal driving position, and shall not be more
than six inches behind the driver. It is strongly suggested that the
roll bar extend at least three inches (3â€
-Scott Creech, #54STF - Hyundai Veloster "The BluMeanie!"
Parfois, on fait pas semblant
"The key to happiness is; If you cannot learn to do something well; learn to enjoy doing it poorly..."
Parfois, on fait pas semblant
"The key to happiness is; If you cannot learn to do something well; learn to enjoy doing it poorly..."
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Stephen-
I can't imagine your chassis flexes enough for a roll cage to help significantly. Instead, it'd add more weight up high, making it slower. Your car is also already fighting a very bad power to weight ratio - this'll just make it worse.
I understand wanting to be safe. In reality, though, you are way, way, WAY more likely to be in an injury accident driving to or from an event than while actually competing during an SCCA SOLO. IIRC, this car is also a daily driver for you. Roll cages are designed to be used in conjunction with helmets. Bare skulls don't like roll cages in much the same way that watermelons don't like sledgehammers. IMHO, the safest configuration for you, your car, and it's intended use, is to leave it stock and not install a cage.
I can't imagine your chassis flexes enough for a roll cage to help significantly. Instead, it'd add more weight up high, making it slower. Your car is also already fighting a very bad power to weight ratio - this'll just make it worse.
I understand wanting to be safe. In reality, though, you are way, way, WAY more likely to be in an injury accident driving to or from an event than while actually competing during an SCCA SOLO. IIRC, this car is also a daily driver for you. Roll cages are designed to be used in conjunction with helmets. Bare skulls don't like roll cages in much the same way that watermelons don't like sledgehammers. IMHO, the safest configuration for you, your car, and it's intended use, is to leave it stock and not install a cage.
Scott Woosley
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+1.flogger wrote:Stephen-
I can't imagine your chassis flexes enough for a roll cage to help significantly. Instead, it'd add more weight up high, making it slower. Your car is also already fighting a very bad power to weight ratio - this'll just make it worse.
I understand wanting to be safe. In reality, though, you are way, way, WAY more likely to be in an injury accident driving to or from an event than while actually competing during an SCCA SOLO. IIRC, this car is also a daily driver for you. Roll cages are designed to be used in conjunction with helmets. Bare skulls don't like roll cages in much the same way that watermelons don't like sledgehammers. IMHO, the safest configuration for you, your car, and it's intended use, is to leave it stock and not install a cage.
Unless you plan on always towing and only using the car for SOLO, track days, and closed circuit racing I don't think it would be wise to put in a cage. It just isn't safe w/o wearing a helmet.
Matt Longpine
'88 MR2
'88 MR2
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It may become a track only car I have not decided yet.SilverYota wrote:
+1.
Unless you plan on always towing and only using the car for SOLO, track days, and closed circuit racing I don't think it would be wise to put in a cage. It just isn't safe w/o wearing a helmet.
(THE ROTARY ENGINE.......................)
communism worked in theory also
communism worked in theory also
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Yes you are right about power to weight ratio. That's where the Eaton m62 supercharger comes in... if I decide to take it that far. But your point was madeflogger wrote:Stephen-
I can't imagine your chassis flexes enough for a roll cage to help significantly. Instead, it'd add more weight up high, making it slower. Your car is also already fighting a very bad power to weight ratio - this'll just make it worse.
I understand wanting to be safe. In reality, though, you are way, way, WAY more likely to be in an injury accident driving to or from an event than while actually competing during an SCCA SOLO. IIRC, this car is also a daily driver for you. Roll cages are designed to be used in conjunction with helmets. Bare skulls don't like roll cages in much the same way that watermelons don't like sledgehammers. IMHO, the safest configuration for you, your car, and it's intended use, is to leave it stock and not install a cage.
(THE ROTARY ENGINE.......................)
communism worked in theory also
communism worked in theory also
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- Posts: 84
- Joined: Sat Jun 16, 2012 8:46 pm
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I agree with Matt that a roll bar is a huge head injury risk in a street car. I also cringe when I see 4 and 5 point harnesses strapping upright drivers in cars without roll bars. If the roof comes down your body will not fold like it does with an OEM 3 point belt
Curtis Wood
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